Finding Your Ring Size

Finger sizing is not an exact science. In fact, it's more of an art. No matter your sizing inquiry, whether it’s for you or for a special someone, HBJ can help. 

You can request a finger sizer during purchasing online; just add the request in the "notes" section during checkout. If you are using our sizing tool at home, try it on multiple times a day to see how your sizing fluctuates and note any commonalities or differences. Time of day, temperature, humidity, salty foods, exercise, alcohol, etc will cause your finger to fluctuate (a full size or more!), and noting these changes can give you a fuller picture of how your ring will fit over time. You want to find a good average.

If you are trying to gauge the ring size for a loved one discreetly, consider asking a close friend or family member who might know their size. If you have access to a ring that fits the finger in question, have said ring measured (either professionally or with a ring gauge mandrel of your own).

We know that each person wears and feels rings differently, and each finger sizer- and jeweler- measures slightly differently. The most important factor of ring sizing is comfort. Rings should be fitted to the base of your finger (not your knuckle). The shape, width, height, and any featured gemstones also play a role: thin or tapered bands can be fitted in a smaller size while rings with thicker and wider bands may fit better in a larger size. Likewise, top-heavy rings (like those with gemstones) have a tendency to swivel on the hand and may require a slightly smaller size.


The studio offers one complimentary ring sizing alteration with the purchase of each HBJ ring—if additional alterations need to be made after the initial alteration, that service is priced on a case-by-case basis (to accommodate for any additional materials and labor). However, each alteration can weaken the integrity of the band, so we strive to get the right fit the first time.

There are multiple ways to size, and the process is different for each style of ring.

The first way is by cutting and soldering the ring, altering size by taking some metal away to make it smaller or adding some additional metal to make it larger.

The second way is with a ring stretcher: you can make a ring about a half size larger with this device (this process only works on rings with a closed band), which comes in handy with Grey Ladies, Fish Scale Rings, and Barnacle Bands.

Unworn HBJ’s made-to-order rings are often just exchanged for a new one in the new size because sizing a ring can be almost as much work as making the ring. Rings featuring a pattern that goes all the way around (for example, the Fish Scale Ring) cannot be cut for a major alteration, so it is very important to determine size ahead of time (cutting the ring would break the pattern). It can be stretched up about a half a size on the ring stretcher, so it is wise to err on the smaller size during ordering.

Rings that feature gemstones cannot be sized the same as those without them. Silver, in particular, proves to be an issue because of the way it conducts heat for solder flow. Therefore, one-of-a-kind gemstone rings with silver shanks need to be sized by laser welder, which can size the ring without heating (and damaging) the rest of the piece. This process is more expensive than in-studio sizing: it ranges from $40-$150 (plus shipping), and can take up to three weeks. The HBJ studio happily covers the first laser weld service, but all sizing thereafter is charged at cost.

Gemstone rings made of gold are simpler to size due to the heat needed to flow the solder. While this process still requires a heat shield over the gemstone, the flame only needs to be focused on the solder seam, away from the gemstone; it can therefore be done in-house and takes closer to a week.

Fit is important, and while there is no "perfect" size, we can get it close if we work together. If you have any questions on the studio's sizing process, fit suggestions, and sizing fees, please don't hesitate to reach out! Click here to get in touch. 

Bespoke Fine Jewelry Blog


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